Its time to fall in love with some painted Ladies in San Francisco. The Fighting Couple has been on lots of tours and by tours we mean, academic, informative, open-ended questions, catered to a small group, kind of tours. We don’t follow umbrellas. We learn so much on “good” tours that we like to go on tours even when it’s a city we have been to many times.
So on a recent couple’s trip to San Francisco;I jumped at the chance to go on a Victorian Home Walk. Enter our guide, Jay. Jay gave one of the best tours I’ve ever been on. I’ve always had a fascination with Victorian homes. I find them beautiful and after going on the walk with Jay, I adore them even more.
Painted Ladies Tour
I met Jay with a few other folks at Union Square. As an introduction to what we would be seeing, he explained how the area once was full of single family housing prior to the 1906 earthquake. Standing there looking at a crowed shopping center and the sea of humanity milling around, it’s hard to imagine the now commercialized area was once home to thousands before the fire associated with the earthquake leveled the wooden homes. Jay was very knowledgeable about the housing patterns before and after the earthquake and fire changed the city. I have a mid-blog post confession. I am curious. (Mike would say nosey!) You know when you are on a “good” tour when the tour guide can actually answer your questions!
Our exploration of the antique homes took us to the Pacific Heights area. Going on the Victorian Home Walk is just that: a walking tour. Our first stop was the gorgeous Queen Anne Hotel. How I want to stay there! Before we went inside, Jay trained us to spot the three types of Victorian homes: Italianate, Queen Anne, and Stick. Then we ventured inside the splendid hotel and had free rein to look around. It’s gorgeous! The former girl’s school is a Victorian’s dream hotel. Its plush interior and ornate furnishings represent classic Victorian style, and like Jay said, “No one could stuff a room like a Victorian.”
As we walked down Pine Street to Webster and over to Broadway, Jay pointed out how Victorian homes changed over time. As technology improved, the outside of homes became more decorative. But then it wasn’t hip anymore to look ostentatious. For instance, during the 30s and 40s any ornate fixtures on the outside of the homes were replaced to make it look more modern or in my humble opinion: plain. The exteriors were painted stucco or replaced with dull siding. The first floor gardens of the Italianates were removed to make room for the automobile. The boxed shaped livery stables are now condos.
One of my biggest fascinations was the change in color of Victorian homes. Painted Lady, anyone? No, that’s not a Yuppie drink at your favorite bar. It’s the term originated in San Francisco for Victorians painted with three or more colors. Most Victorian homes weren’t painted that way to begin with; in fact, painting your restored Victorian multiple colors to accent the trim and gingerbread didn’t become popular until the 1960s. Originally, Victorians were painted with three colors: the window trim was painted black or very dark green, highlights were white and the overall house color was one color, usually an earth tone that would not fade or show the dirt like brown or dark green. If you see a beautiful home today with a rainbow of colors (yellow, green, blue, red), it’s fun and makes the house pop, but it’s following the pop culture of 40 years ago, not the original color schemes.
The pace of the tour was steady, but not like a race. I never felt at any time that I was rushed. It was also casual enough that there was appropriate downtime to quiz our guide on the things we were seeing. “Why does this house have three doors? Why does this house have a bay window but the one next door doesn’t? When was this built?” You get the gist. I’m sure Jay was glad when I stopped asking questions! This tour tops our things to do in San Francisco list.
Did you know that you can “Ask the Fighting Couple Anything?”
The tour lasted roughly two and a half hours. We ended the tour in the she-she-la-la area of celebrity mansions overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge. Jay pointed out Jessica McClintock mansion-painted all white like her designer wedding gowns. We saw the house from Mrs. Doubtfire and the house a few doors down where Robin Williams lived. Jay was full of celebrity gossip from those who live or lived in the area. But you’ll have to go on the tour; I won’t dish any here.
What struck me most about this tour was Jay’s unique knowledge about the individual homes we saw. It’s wasn’t the kind of stuff you could find in a history book. It was the type of information he personally gathered from living in the city and doing tours for 20 years. Most of all, I never felt like I was on parade. In fact, I felt like a local being shown around by a local. I wasn’t on tour bus with a bored driver reading an approved script over a microphone. I was shown a local side of San Francisco, a place where people live.
And just like a local, when we ended the tour at the Union Street Shops, Jay showed us which restaurants to the get the best sandwich, the best pasta and the best seafood. I treated myself to a to a pumpkin spice cream puff at Pacific Puffs.
The next time you are in San Francisco; don’t miss the Victorian Home Walk. It will be the best $25 you spend in the city.
A special thank you goes out to our friends at Victorian Home Walk who provided this experience. Check some gorgeous painted ladies out next time you are in San Francisco.
Great post, and for that matter, great blog! We fell in love with San Francisco earlier this year…
I always wanted to go to San Francisco, but just because of the hippie movement (14 years old). Okay, and maybe to see the Golden Gate Bridge (18 years old). And ride an insanely steep tram. Then I watched “Milk” about the life of Harvey Milk, and I got to think that San Francisco is a place with a lot of subcultures which I find very interesting. It’s weird how I wouldn’t normally consider doing a “Victorian Home Walk” because it sounds somewhat dry (although I am interested in various styles and their history) and then your post has made me want to book one the minute I arrive in San Fran, basically. With Jay:)!
I loved seeing these. All I could think of was Uncle Jesse. And what a gorgeous view of the city. I didn’t realize that they were called Painted Ladies because they were painted in three different colours. I just thought it was a nickname because all the homes are painted different colours. The things you learn:-)
So true, you look at something and think you understand it, then you learn a little more. It was a great walk through history. Thanks for your comment.
Vera-You are so right. San Francisco has so many different layers. There is truely something for everyone. If you do make it, please say hello to jay!
Falling in love with San Fran is so easy to do. There is so much to see and do. Not to mention eat.
Gorgeous!! I was just in San Francisco, too, and I loved the architecture. But now I wish I had done this tour!
Thanks Abby. Next time you are in Frisco its a must! Ive seen the pictures for so many years and never knew the stories behind them.
I love the painted ladies in San Francisco! They’re so pretty. I’ve always wanted to live in a house like that. :)
So do we! SFO is such a fun city.
We’ve never been to San Francisco yet. We are a big fun of Victorian architecture, so these houses would be very interesting to see. Cheers for sharing :)
Ha ha ha, great one! I have so many pictures of those, my partner was constantly asking how many more of those you need, and I was like ‘but they are all different’ ha ha ha We spend 2 weeks in SF you can imagine my collection of pictures! LOL
What is fun, is driving around on a painted lady safari, trying to find another and another.
Hah! Yes it is a quest! Each one is so unique. Love the colors and the details on each home.
that one is listed at $3.5 million i think. it’s on pine.
That is crazy money! What is the Sqft?